A well-fitted dress shirt is a wardrobe essential, but beyond fit and fabric, the design of the front and back can shape its level of formality and functionality. Whether you're shopping off the rack or going custom made with your dress shirts, understanding the different front and back styles can help you choose the right shirt for the right occasion and your lifestyle.

Dress Shirt Fronts

No Placket

Also known as a French front, this clean, minimalist design has no visible strip of fabric where the buttons are sewn. The fabric simply folds over and is stitched from the inside, giving the shirt a sleek, modern look. This style is considered the most formal and is ideal for dressy occasions or under a suit. You might need double sided fabric tape if your shirt is gaping a bit between buttons, to ensure it lays properly.

Placket Front

The most common dress shirt front, the placket, is a visible strip of fabric that reinforces the buttonholes. It adds structure and a slightly more casual feel than a French front. This style works well for both business and casual settings.

Covered Placket

In this design, the buttons are hidden behind a fold of fabric. The covered placket is often found on formal shirts, especially those worn with tuxedos, because it creates a clean, uninterrupted line. It is ideal for black-tie events and upscale formalwear.

Tuxedo Placket

This style features a vertical panel of pleated or textured fabric on either side of the buttons. It adds a classic touch to formal attire and is traditionally worn with a bow tie and tuxedo. The tuxedo placket is reserved for black-tie occasions and weddings.

Dress Shirt Backs

Side Pleats

These small pleats are located near the shoulder blades on either side of the back panel. Side pleats allow a greater range of motion while keeping a tailored silhouette. They are favored by men with broader shoulders and are considered a versatile option for both business and dress wear.

Box Pleats

A single pleat in the center of the upper back, box pleats provide more room across the shoulders and upper back. This style is common in more casual dress shirts and offers comfort for everyday wear. While slightly less formal, box pleats still work well under a blazer.

No Pleats

Shirts without pleats offer the cleanest look. They are tailored closely to the body and are best for slim or athletic builds. This style is typically found in high-end, custom, or European shirts and is ideal for formal or business settings where a streamlined appearance is preferred.

Split Back Yoke

The yoke is a fabric panel that stretches across the upper back. A split back yoke is cut on the bias and sewn from two pieces, allowing for more stretch and better fit, particularly across the shoulders. This construction is often found in high-quality or custom shirts and is appropriate for men who prioritize both fit and movement.

Understanding these features can help you choose shirts that align with both style preferences and functional needs. Whether it's a no-placket front for an elegant dinner or a split yoke for added comfort during long workdays, these subtle design choices can make a big impact.